Monday 30 September 2013

P0 F1 F2 F3 - This Is Where It Begins To Get Confusing

Who would have thought such a simple comment made in complete ignorance and innocence would cause such a flourish of conversation?

I apologise in advance, this is a very long and complicated blog post...but you may just learn something, or have it clarified if you read to the end :)

On the AusAqua Facebook page https://www.facebook.com/groups/ausaqua/ (and if you're going there, you should also go to, and join, the AusAqua forum here), I made the announcement that my Marble Dragon HMPK male had successfully wrapped with one of my Turquoise female CT's, and that this was the first step in my journey to breeding a line of CTPK, but, I was aware that decent form fish to work with were not likely to show up until F3.

This was answered with another breeder who was aiming for their own line of CTPK mentioning his F1 CTPK spawn had failed last week :(

Another fellow Betta fancier and breeder new to it all asked a straight forward question - a similar question to what I had asked on the AusAqua forum, a similar question to what many fish breeders have asked before when seeing such a comment for the first time: What does F3 and F1 mean?

So having looked all this up previously, and while still being involved in a thread conversation on the forum about this very topic, I answered somewhat generically:

Generations - the spawn of this pair will be the first generation and therefore are designated F1. Their children will be F2, and so on...so the great grand kids of this pair will be F3







A dictionary meaning: http://www.thefreedictionary.com/filial:

1. Of, relating to, or befitting a son or daughter: filial respect.
2. Having or assuming the relationship of child or offspring to parent.
3. Genetics Of or relating to a generation or the sequence of generations following the parental generation. 




































Join the AusAqua Forum! (they will be able explain all this much better than my fumbling attempts)




 
Jason floating his eggs under the cup because he never mastered the bubblenest



Saturday 28 September 2013

Prep And Being A Fish Grand Daddy...Again

Been a busy Saturday. I think I watched a whole quarter of the grand final...had much more important things to attend to :)

First cab off the rank was to head to Bunning's and pick up a couple of six outlet power boards, a couple of 24 hour timers, and some aquatic slow release fertiliser.

Then we walked down to the pet shop not far from there to shake our heads in amazement at the three poorly looked after VT's they had in a barracks system capable of holding 36!

We picked up a few bunches of Pennywort and a few bunches of Water Sprite while we were there, and a dual compartment breeders net.

When we arrived home, I promptly set about detangling the bird's nest that represents all the cabling in and around my tanks. This is the second time I've done this and I again ended up with a spare four-outlet power board...for now.

Then some of the Water Sprite and some of the Pennywort went into the sorority tank, along with the breeders net, now known as the naughty room. If any of the girls are overly aggressive from now on, up to two of them can be kept in the naughty room, but still interact with the rest of the girls. I have Ashlea to thank for that suggestion through the AusAqua Forum (an excellent Betta, Killifish, and Guppy resource).

 
The Sorority - current population 3
After new arrivals on Tuesday (after quarantine period) - population 15
(including a couple of Bristlenose Catfish)

I then setup all the containers I need for the next week or two to quarantine the new arrivals I'm expecting on Tuesday.

 
These 10 containers (the tank is only an emergency if need be)

 
Plus these 7

I'm expecting 10 girls, I think, 3 Bristlenose, and 3 boys, I think. It's been a while since I organised them all, but I don't want to go back and check. That way I may surprise myself :)

Just in case there are a few more, I've organised these containers as well:


Any more then that, and I'll be scrambling for space...

Who really knows what I'll end up with...the Victoria Betta IBC auction is tomorrow and I've expressed and interest in a fish or two from there as well...

But once these are all in, I've got three weeks to sort things out before the Betta Australis IBC show, and there end-of-show sale...might need to buy some more tanks...

Lastly, is the current fry. I have at least 70+ convict fry in one tank, and, after taking photos and doing a count of the CTPK F1 spawn (the first generation of my Crown Tail Plakat project), I have a conservative estimate of 60+ fry in there as well.

The first goal, is to get these Betta fry past week 5, which is when my last spawn decided to all explode at the same time :(  This time round, I'll try to be a better grandad.

Thursday 26 September 2013

Monday 23 September 2013

Culturing Vinegar Eels

No mess, no fuss, no missing ventrals...at least I've not heard of a theory linking Vinegar Eels (VE) with missing ventrals ;)

But how does one go about keeping, raising, and dividing VE cultures?

Well, I'm glad you asked ;)

VE are actually Turbatrix aceti, a nematode. They grow only to 2-3mm in length and take absolutely nothing other than apple vinegar and some water to keep them happy and reproducing like the Dickens!

Where to get them? Most pet shops or local aquatic shops either carry a starter culture or can get them in for you for $10-$20, but the best place to get them is off one of your fellow fish keepers, particularly if you belong to a society, because chances are, you'll get them for nix (see, there are lots of great reasons to join your local society).

When you receive your starter culture, it will likely be in a bag. To successfully raise them, you need to transfer the contents into two transparent wide-mouth containers. These can be anything from soda bottles with the top cut off, to a couple of these:

Maison Jars (pickling jars)

These come in a range of sizes, and the bigger you go, the more VE you'll be able to culture in a single culture, which, if you intend on breeding large numbers of fry, may be a good thing.

So, you have your containers (I have a culture growing in a glass coffee jar even), and you have your donated started culture (because I now you all went out and joined a local society). Pour half your starter culture into each of your containers.

Many people have their suggested ratios of apple vinegar to water. I like mostly vinegar, so about 80% apple vinegar to 20% aged water is what I use in a 500ml culture (that's 400ml apple vinegar to 100ml aged water for those not wanting to get a calculator out ;)).

Many people also suggest adding sugar or slices of apple to their culture. Sugar apparently makes the culture take off, but it may also reduce the life of the culture. Slices of apple can cloud the water (from experience). Neither are really required so I'd just leave it well alone.

So - back to the starter culture - you've poured in your starter culture into two containers. Now add your 20% aged water, and then add your apple vinegar. This is the stuff I use:


 The main point here is to use an apple vinegar with no added colours, flavours or preservatives. It's also why I only use aged treated water. This is going to end up in your fry - make it worth the effort.

So now you have two containers with your cultures sitting happily within them. They do smell a little bit like spilled vinegar, which may attract unwanted bugs or pets to them. After all your hard work, we need to stop them from being contaminated.

Get a chux cloth - a new, clean one...one that has never been used (get the picture). Cut a square of it off. Make sure it is big enough to cover the top of your container. You can keep it attached with a rubber band. If you went that bit further and purchased the maison jars, you can slip out the central lid insert, which will leave you a threaded ring. You can then screw that down over the chux to hold it in place...like this:

 
Completed VE Culture waiting to be gobbled up by well loved fry

Your culture should be stored somewhere safe and preferably somewhere out of direct sunlight. Inside a utility cupboard your spawn tank is sitting on would be handy. This will cut out the light, and cut out any traces of vinegar...at least I don't seem to smell it anymore and my cat doesn't seem to sniff around the cupboard either.

It should last at least 3 months before it crashes, or so I'm told. I've never had one crash to this point with my oldest culture being 4 months old at the writing of this post.

You require a wide-mouth container as the VE want to get to the surface to breath. They will pack themselves in at the surface, regularly circulating so everyone gets their chance to gasp. If you shine a torch through the back of the culture, you'll see millions of glittering VE writhing around in there.

This is also why a narrow neck bottle is the perfect way to harvest them: see previous post.

Unlike other micro-food for fry, VE doesn't die in the tank and end up as gunk on the bottom. VE will happily survive in the water column until they are eaten. They don't grow to massive proportions while living in your tank - 2-3mm is it. Granted, they don't quite have the same nutritional value as microworms (MW) and they have nowhere near the benefits of freshly hatched Baby Brine Shrimp (BBS), but for the first few days after hatching, your Betta fry live off their egg yolks. When they begin free swimming, they are extremely small and feed of infusoria and other microscopic creatures living in your tank. Adding VE to the diet gives them something else to chase and devour, giving them excellent exercise and keeping the tank clean. By the end of the first week, they can then be switched to BBS. If you still have some small fry, it will do no harm to add a little VE to the tank.

But why two jars? If you have an accident, or a culture crashes, and you have hungry fry to feed, you better have a plan B!

Check your cultures once a month and divide if it looks like you have a massive amount of VE congregating at the top - it will look like a cloud of them suspended in the fluid. Rinse and repeat - and give some to your next new comer to the society meet...never hurts to pay things forward ;)

Good luck with your spawns!

Sunday 22 September 2013

Another Miss...Tinkering Required

Ghost x Turquoise CT didn't produce a wrap :(

Spawn tank broken down and cleaned. I'll be filling it back up late today and placing Jason, my other dragon marble HMPK:


In with him will be another turquoise CT female:


The difference between this girl and the last is the masking being present. She is a full sister to the last female.

This time round, the male will be placed in the spawn tank from the get go, so if he makes a nest, he wont have to be moved and make another one...which didn't work out too well this weekend. The female will be conditioned the same way as the last, but as soon as she's striped, and a nest is present, she'll be in. Going to go on gut feel this time rather than patience :)

Friday 20 September 2013

She Is In

Placed my girl in the spawn tank tonight. I'm very keen to see if this new conditioning regime works - this is the first time I've had a girl dropping eggs on the way in!

Excited...

Sorry about the state of the glass and the wayward wire...

 
Bursting at the seams

 
Impatiently waiting for her boy

Thursday 19 September 2013

More Conditioning

Timing by my South American Convict Cichlids was absolutely perfect. Wednesday morning, their fourth spawn decided to hatch. Unfortunately for the mother, she chose a lovely open spot in the Convict tank to show them off. I required no further invitation to quickly suck them all up into a separate container :)

Here they now sit:


They are a couple of days old so only one more day or so and they should begin free swimming. Currently, they are living off their egg sac (the big brown blob they're carrying around with them). As I only have the one pair being conditioned currently, I only require 6-8 Convict fry in the morning to feed them both. Live food is excellent for conditioning apparently, and so, obviously my Convicts thought they'd help out the cause :)

Once they begin free swimming, they'll need to be fed, so once again, live foods are the food of choice.

By tomorrow morning, my vinegar eel easy-harvesting machine will be good to go. On Friday evening, the female will go into the spawn tank for free roaming. She will still be fed blood worms/adult shrimp, and Convict fry. The male will have his tank moved alongside the spawn tank and the three-times-a-day uncarding sessions will continue till Saturday evening. The male will also continue with the same menu.

Saturday evening, the female will go into an isolation tube, and when settled, the male will go into the spawn tank. Both will be fed one last time before the male goes in.

Then the uncertain part starts. Hopefully the male builds a new nest fairly quickly. Hopefully the female continues to be very ready. Hopefully the male is not an idiot and doesn't chase the female for too long or too roughly once I release her (after he's made the nest). Hopefully they wrap before bedtime. Hopefully I can take the female out before I go to bed. Hopefully the male doesn't eat the eggs...and on it goes...

Tuesday 17 September 2013

Conditioning

Prep work hasn't gone exactly to plan. Unfortunately, I've not got the females I thought I'd be getting, at least not yet. Seems I'll have to try and buy them along with everyone else, except, the car decided to break down and required my spare cash to rescue it. Good news is the car is functioning correctly again, bad news is I have no money left for fish this pay...

So I'm still trying to work the fish I have. I've split the sorority for now due to my minimum female numbers. Kate remains in the sorority tank while Pippa and Di have found alternate accommodation. The problem I have now is I cant tell them apart. Being sisters, they are almost identical. I can only distinguish Kate because of her masking.

Having done my homework on conditioning, I have placed Ghost (my white marble dragon halfmoon plakat (HMPK)) in a small container. This container doesn't have heating or a filter, but as I heat the room, and it's only for five days, he'll be fine:


As you can see, the water is stained with tannins from IAL, and it also has a small amount of aquarium salt (which I strongly believe is nothing more than Rock Salt).

Along side him is (I think), Diana (aka Gidget).


They get 15 minutes or so to see each other, three times a day. The rest of the time, I place a piece of corflute between them. This is called carding. Both are fed frozen blood worms and/or adult brine shrimp, twice a day.

On Friday evening, I'll move the female into the spawn tank and let her swim around on her own till Saturday morning. I'll then place her in the isolation tube (a 2L soft drink bottle with the top and bottom cut off), and add Ghost.

He had already started a nest in the little container above after the first uncarding session between the two. As soon as he starts to build another one in the spawn tank (hopefully), I'll release the female and see how we go...fingers crossed.

Tuesday 10 September 2013

More Of The Same...And Something New

The weekend spawn attempts amounted to nada. I've been reading on the Betters4All forum (an excellent place to be a member of if you want to advance your learning) about the conditioning techniques and how some of the world renown Betta Breeders setup their pair and their spawn tanks. I figure I cant go too wrong copying them (cant do any worse than I currently am) and so this payday is going to be all about prep work for spawning.

Friends are sourcing some new females for me (possibly among other things ;)), so I need to have the environment ready for their arrival. The problem with Betta breeding is the small(ish) window we have.

Betta are sold around the 5 or 6 month mark. They are good for the spawning tank up to around 18 months. Breeding during winter is a hit and miss proposition, leaving 1...maybe 2...shots at getting something in the spawn tank, and so, doing everything we can to get a successful spawn is paramount.

All girls came out of the spawn tanks on Sunday night and into their sorority environment. Some fighting followed, but a hierarchy was quickly established and they all seem to be doing well now. Damaged fins are already beginning to repair.

The boys went back into the barracks except for William, who is showing signs of some fin rot I'd not noticed before. He'd been looking a little ragged since his five week stint as daddy to his first spawn. I thought he needed some sun to straighten out his rays, but it seems it may be a little more than that. So, into a quarantine (QT) tank he goes with elevated levels of IAL, and aquarium salt, and prescribed levels of Kanamycin with 50% water change every second day. This will continue at least until this weekend.

As for prep work for spawning - I will be looking to use a couple of old non-heated or filtered Betta bowls as introductory bays. They were are first purchase some months ago in an effort to get a couple of VT's into bigger accommodations but then learned they needed to be heated. As I now heat the room, they will work as homes for the intended male and female on a short term basis. They will be positioned next to each other to allow the pair to get used to each other before closer introductions in the spawning tank.

As for something new...my family gifted me, for Father's Day, this set of license plates for my car:

 
Very happy :)

Friday 6 September 2013

Spawns On The Go-Go

The girls are all better and so the breeding program is back on.

Currently in the spawn tanks are:

 
Ghost and
 
 
 
Pippa
 
Goals: branching in all fins is very good for Ghost and Pippa. Dorsal fins are spectacular on both. Ghost's lines are also very good - should give me some nice fish to work with in F1. These will also allow me to have dragon stock to cross breed with for my other crown tail (CT) lines.

Expectations: Long fin is dominant over the short fin so I should end up with CT who carry the plakat (PK) (short fin) gene, so a sibling pair should give me CTPK in F2. Ghost is a dragon and so should give me the modifiers I need to start the journey to a grass green CTPK in F3 or F4. With his marble gene, it will also be very interesting as to what colours and patterns I end up with.

Next up is the continued hunt for green with:

 
William and
 
 
Kate

Kate and Pip are full sisters (hence the similarity in looks (phenotypes)). The only real difference is Kate has a full mask whereas Pip does not.

Goals: haven't changed - this is the first step towards a grass green CT. I need a part dragon female, with full masking to breed back with dad. This should give me metallic green CT in F3. At that point, I'll be looking to add yellow into the mix, or possibly a lighter body specimen from Ghost's line. Introduction of the marble gene should also remove any red wash :)

Fun times ahead....I hope!